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Subject |
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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Coachmen heat on grey water guage

It is the water heater switch for the electric element. Make sure you have water in the heater before turning it on. Turn on a hot water faucet until water flows out of it. Then you can turn on the elec. heater switch.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/20/08 05:16pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: How many of you head south AFTER Christmas?

We will be leaving the Ann Arbor area on December 29th. Should arrive in Tampa on New Years day.:B
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/20/08 09:08am |
Snowbirds
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RE: Hi- Looking for advice on route to Florida from Chicago

Take the I-65 route South to Montgomery AL. to Exit 168 which is US-80. East on US-80 to US-231 South to I-10. I-10 East to Exit 225 which is US-19 take US-19 South to US-98 take US-98 SE to the Suncoast PKY which is HWY 589 (This is a toll road but worth the money) into Tampa. Less truck traffic on I-65 than I-75 and a lot less stressful. Mostly 4 lane highway all the way.
This is the route we have taken from SE Michigan for that past 6 years. It has no large hills and much less truck traffic than I75. The only slightly rough part is around Birmingham,AL but other than that it is usually smooth sailing!:) The toll costs on the Suncoast Parkway will be about $16 total for the whole length of it but it is well worth the money. No traffic at all and very smooth pavement. It begins just South of Homosassa (just about when the traffic becomes very heavy and bad on US19) and runs all the way to Tampa. It avoids all the heavy traffic of US19.
We will be leaving on December 29th and will arrive in Tampa on New Years day. We will probably be right behind you.:)
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/20/08 08:58am |
Snowbirds
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RE: Need PDF program

I use Win2PDF. It will also do the e-mailing for you.:)
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/20/08 08:39am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Hitch Question

Ha Ha, found out why the tilt is there! The clown that told me that it had to do with the returnablity of the trailer was out to lunch, (Goes to show, thier service was just as bad) and now I know why I could never logically figure out his reasoning for that.
The tilt of the head has to do with adding more or less weight distribution, a "fine tune" of the WD system.
Sorry for blowin' smoke up yur butts, but if "someone" would have taught me the correct reasoning in the beginning, I wouldn't be appologizing. Sad thing is, the guy I asked why the head was tilted, also let me take my trailer home with my ball HAND TIGHT. (I wasn't a happy camper that day)
Hey, no need to apoligize! We all learn from these forums - that is why we are here.:) Too bad that guy who told you that in the first place doesn't read them. Glad you got the facts straighened around - you have it right now. :)
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/20/08 08:02am |
Towing
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RE: Hitch Question

Geometry of steering. It was explained to me in my early years, never did get the understanding of it, still don't understand it completey, it kinda makes sense, but then again, it's a ball, a round sphere.
The tilt is the camber of the turning system, (helps in turning and return, user decided), ...
:h
Barney
Yep, I agree with it in relation to steering geometry but that has nothing to do with the tilt of the hitch head and towing.:)
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/19/08 06:29pm |
Towing
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RE: JayCo Travel Trailer + Tahoe = Aerodynamic Issues

I have experienced this once with a totally different trailer but a Tahoe. The sway bar have a slide bar and a break pad. If you have these adjusted too tight you will experience the "instantaneous shift" you describe when there is sufficient force to over come the friction which keeps them from moving. They basicly are snapping to a new position on the bar. They need to only be tight enough to dampen any sway motion. Try towing with a lot less tention on the sway bar and then add tention as needed.
Bonefish
Actually, You should not have to adjust the friction sway control once you have it set for your trailer. That large handle is an "ON/OFF" device and not an adjustment lever. You should always turn the handle as far as it will go and then back it off until it is parallel with the A frame. This way, you always know exactly how much tension you have on the device.
You adjust the tension on the control by turning the small bolt located below the handle in 1/4 turn increments until you get the sway control you need. Once done, you should not have to re-set it for various conditions but only if the pads wear or you get a different rig. Here is a cut/paste from the factory instructions.
Barney
1. SWAY CONTROL CANNOT BE USED ON TRAILERS WITH SURGE BRAKES. DO NOT USE SWAY
CONTROL ON CLASS I OR II HITCHES. USE ON CLASS III OR IV ONLY.
2. Trailer loading: Proper trailer loading is your first-line defense against dangerous instability and sway.
Heavy items should be placed on the floor in front of the axle. The load should be balanced side-to-side and
secured to prevent shifting. Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of gross trailer weight for most
trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight can cause sway. Load the trailer heavier in front.
3. The handle (5) is an on/off device. The bolt (7) below is for adjustment only.
4. When towing during slippery conditions such as wet, icy, or snow-covered roads or on loose gravel, turn
on/off handle (5) counterclockwise until all tension is removed from unit. Failure to do so could prevent tow
vehicle and trailer from turning properly.
5. Do not speed up if sway occurs. Sway increases with speed. Do not continue to operate a swaying vehicle.
Check trailer loading, sway control adjustment and all other equipment until the cause of sway has been
determined and corrected.
6. Never paint or lubricate slide bar (6).
2. HOOK-UP
a. Lubricate both balls with a small amount of grease, place socket of slide bar (6) over ball (1) and secure with
clip (2b). Loosen handle (5) until the slide bar can be moved. Extend sway control assembly and place
socket over ball on trailer, secure with other clip (2b).
b. Retighten handle until it stops (handle should be in its original level position). The sway control assembly is
preset at the factory with a tension suitable for most light trailers.
c. On some installations, damage to the sway control may occur during extremely sharp turning maneuvers.
This can be checked by slowly backing vehicle into a jackknife position while someone is watching. Do not
allow slide bar to contract completely (bottom out) or bumper to contact sway control. If it looks as thought
contact will be made or the sway control will bottom out then the sway control must be removed before
backing trailer.
3. ADJUSTMENT
a. Trailer configurations and loading, road and weather conditions, towing speed, tire condition and pressure,
and center of gravity of trailer all affect towing. To get maximum benefits from the sway control assembly, a
series of road tests should be taken with the loaded trailer. During the first road test try the sway control at
the factory preset force. On subsequent trips increase or decrease tension by turning the adjusting bolt (7) in
1/4 turn increments in the direction shown on the label until the desired control is achieved. For large
trailers, it may be necessary to install a second sway control unit.
b. After about 1000 miles of towing, remove the slide bar from the sway control and clean the friction surfaces
with a wire brush. Repeat this cleaning procedure about every 10,000 miles.
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BarneyS
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11/19/08 06:20pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: RV Wholesalers

I am sorry you got bashed a bit when you made your first post. You might be interested in some forum background as to why you got the response you did to your first post. You should know that RVW has had MANY people posting on here about how wonderful their sales experience was. It did get a bit tiresome because there were dozens of them. The theme was always the same and you could have just about copy/pasted many of the posts. I, and many other members here suspected it may have been a salesman posting as a new member, or that the company was asking their customers to advertise here for them.
That is the reason that you got the response you did - so you can see that there is reason for it and not just that this "is a hard group" or that the members here are mean spirited. Just the opposite is true. If you stick around, you will find that most of the folks here are very knowledgeable and helpful. Of course, we have many thousands of members and you will find a few grouches in any group but you just have to realize that and take their information with a grain of salt.:B
Welcome to the forums and I hope you enjoy your new trailer and come back and post often.:)
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/19/08 05:53pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Hitch Question

The tilt is the camber of the turning system, (helps in turning and return, user decided), ...
:h
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/19/08 07:29am |
Towing
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RE: RV antifreeze vs filter?

Thanks every one, live and learn! I'll take the filter out and start all over this AM. BTW, I was wondering if having the color removed by the filter effected the antifreeze performance, especially as the clear water felt very greasy. So I got a little sample from the faucet and put it in the freezer overnight. I don't know the temp, but I will check it today, probably near zero. After several hours, the "clear" antifreeze had thickened completely, but was not frozen solid. When I checked it this AM, it was a barely wet slush, but not a solid ice cube. So, apparently still some effectiveness, but maybe I should replace it and start all over without the filter.
Probably not but how do you know with no trace color to tell by!
You can tell because the water felt "very greasy". The antifreeze makes the water feel slippery so you know it is there even though the color is gone.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/18/08 02:13pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: RV antifreeze vs filter?

The filter will remove the color but the antifreeze is still good. No need to redo it. RV antifreeze normally wil get "slushy" when it gets cold but will not freeze solid and will not expand to break the pipes.
If I were in your place, I would leave well enough alone until spring. In the spring, flush out the lines, and then replace the filter with a new element. My under counter filter has a seperate pipe that I put in, in place of the filter. That way, I can winterize without filling the filter full of antifreeze.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/18/08 09:09am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: winterizing - draining the hot water tank in a jayflight

Open your exterior access door to the water heater and remove the drain plug located at the bottom of tank. Make sure tank is not pressurized by releasing any built up pressure first.
how do i release the pressure - just open a hot water fawcet?
Yes, that will do it. You can also lift up on the pressure relief valve on the outside of the heater to help the water drain faster.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/18/08 08:58am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Hitch Question

Those large 3/4 inch bolts that hold the hitch head on to the shank should be torqued to 300ft/lbs. If proper torque wrench is not available, torque nuts to 150 ft/lbs then turn nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
I would tilt the head about half way for a start and see how it does. If you need more WD with a minimum of 5 links under tension then tilt it some more, but always keep at least 5 links between the bars and snap up brackets as a minimum.
I have the Reese install instructions in PDF and the Robin should be exactly the same. If you would like a copy, send me an e-mail (not Private Message) and I will reply with the instructions attached. You can get my e-mail by clicking on my profile at the left of this post or by clicking on my website below in signature.
Please indicate if you have the round bars or trunnnion style hitch.
Also, you might want to take a look at this sticky post for advice on setting up your hitch.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/18/08 08:35am |
Towing
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RE: Garmin GPS Upgrade

I use the Mapsource that I got with my Garmin Street Pilot III quite a few years ago to make routes and waypoints and download them to my Nuvi 760. In fact, when I went to the Garmin website to register my Nuvi, they updated it with the new 2009 maps and also did my Mapsource on the computer at the same time.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/17/08 07:06pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: 2002 GMC Sierra 5.3 Liter Cold Starting Problem

Moved to Tech Issues forum from Towing.
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BarneyS
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11/17/08 12:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Need Help in Houston

Why not have a mobile lube service come to you? They operate in the Houston area. I used the service a couple of years ago and they came right to my campground. The cost was very reasonable also. Had my truck done for $80 which is just about the same as it costs me to take it to a dealer and have it done. They were very professional and did a good job. They service the KOA - Houston Central, 1620 Peachleaf, Houston, TX 77039
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/16/08 05:11pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: TV Manufacturers' Definition of "Tongue Weight Rating"

Because you are the moderator of this forum, I though I better explain this in more detail. I don't want you to think that I am posting this thread just for the fun of starting some unnecessary arguments.
LAdams is the Moderator of the Travel Trailer forum and the Hybrid Trailer forum. I am the only moderator of this forum, however, LAdams does fill in for me many times when I am gone camping or otherwise disposed. I do the same for him.:)
Thank you for your complete and concise explanation to him for the reason for your post. I think it will help many others also.:) I really don't think he was being critical of you and hope you didn't take it that way - in fact, maybe he was doing a bit of trolling himself! (I sometimes go to his forum and do the same thing):B
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/16/08 12:12pm |
Towing
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RE: Adding a pic to your signature

You cannot delete the whole message but you can edit out everything and just leave a period. When the moderator of the forum sees that he/she will delete it.
As for the pictures, yes, you have to upload your picture to an off site hosting location and then put the link into the picture box on this forum. We do not have on-site picture hosting here, other than for profiles and signatures.
Take a look at this link for everyting you ever wanted to know about pictures on this forum.:)
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/16/08 06:59am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: sway bars are they worth it?

The Dual Cam should be the minimum considered, size and weight are irrelevant . . .
Actually, size and weight are NOT irrelevant. The Dual Cam should only be used when the tongue weight of the trailer is 400lb or above. Any lighter than that and the Dual Cam does not work effectively. I really doubt if very many pop-ups would have enough tongue weight to be able to use a Dual Cam system - if they are able to use a WD system at all.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/15/08 05:12pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Just curious

How many of you all are on the road or at home or somewhere else right now.And where would you be?
Everybody! :B I'm home right now.
Barney
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BarneyS
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11/15/08 07:57am |
General RVing Issues
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